5.8. Water waves travel faster in deep water than in shallow water. An estuary is a semi-enclosed coastal body of water where, Figure 8A-1 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig08A-1.png The Coriolis Effect deflects a fluid to the ______ in the Northern Hemisphere. (A) A warning sign explains rip current dangers and how to avoid them. -Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point. due to evaporation along the equator, the water in these currents has much, higher salinity than coastal waters or surface water in the center of the. e.very little difference between high and low tides. Fig. Midterm #3 Flashcards Flashcards | Chegg.com -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs at a density boundary within the ocean (wrong answers: at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor , close to shore as it moves into shallow water , only as a . The map below shows some popular surf spots. the seafloor has an trough located just offshore andparallel to the beach offshore sand bars block some of the wave energy a depression or shallow channel runs offshore from the beach there are headlands along the coast the first part of each wave crest starts to break OCE1001 Exam 2 Flashcards As water waves approach boundaries, their properties, including direction of propagation, speed, frequency, period, and energy, can change. What is the crest of a wave? Required fields are marked *. The color coding reveals that wave heights are associated with, Wind fetch is _______. Based on the equations for determining the speed of shallow-water waves, which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves? On irregular coasts. In general, a good surf spot is one that breaks fairly often and in a manner that offers rideable waves. 5.10. We invite you to share your thoughts, ask for help or read what other educators have to say by. Tsunami waves and tidal bores are examples of surging breakers. e.Tides are not impacted by the eccentricity of Earths orbit about the Sun. orthogonals that become more closely spaced as they approach the shore. b. thick layers of evaporitic minerals (e.g., salts) on the seafloor. -Superwaves e.wave refraction. b.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during summer. -The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. -Mixed interference a. boulders, rocks, clay b. gravel, sand, mud c. lithogenous, hydrogenous, biogenous d. conglomerate, sandstone, shale e. igneous. -Shipwrecker waves North Atlantic Central Surface Water (NACSW). 5.3. Factors Affecting the Rate of Erosion As waves approach a coastline they lose energy though because friction with the seabed increases. -When two waves that have long wavelength interfere. Diagram of the profile of a wave approaching shore; notice that the wave height increases as the water gets shallower. In a reflected wave, the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection for wave direction. What type of plate boundary are most tsunamis associated with? What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed interference? Of the following physical changes that occur to waves as they move into shallow water, which is/are true? b. Waves converge on headlands due to ________. Does Elena end up with Damon in the books? What type of sediment is the most abundant by volume? Discordant coastline occurs where bands of differing rock type run perpendicular to the coast. -Waves with longer periods have shorter wavelengths. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. 5.4. -the lowest part of the wave, What is the wave height? If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? What is a drawback of seawalls? The most common tidal pattern around the world are ________. Coastal features are constantly changing; the same beach can look different over the span of a season or even a day. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ________. How long does gammon steaks take in the oven? -A wave with an amplitude that is the larger of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. The wave fronts appear to bend around the edge of each of the barriers. The altering rate of erosion of hard and soft rock is known as differential erosion. Of the following situations involving orthogonals, which one involves the highest energy? Quartz Grains The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area. These lines of weakness get enlarged and develop into small sea caves. Diffraction occurs when waves pass through an opening or around a barrier and change direction (Fig. If the process of speciation appears to occur relatively rapidly, why don't we see new species evolving all the time? Plunging breakers (Fig. Fig. Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. Which type of current flow moves in a circular path around a subtropical convergence, reflecting Ekman transport, gravity, and the Coriolis effect? 28. What is rotational slumping A level geography? 17. has very high high tides and very low low tides. e. wave refraction. c.wave diffraction. -The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. 5.19). Using your knowledge of breaking waves and wave properties, investigate why certain surf breaks are good for surfing. Make Print-Friendly. A. winds blowing across the ocean surface, B. density differences between water layers, A. at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor, B. close to shore as it moves into shallow water, D. at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean, E. at a density boundary within the ocean. Coastal winds can cause upwelling or downwelling due to which of the following? Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction. a low reproduction rate for sharks, thus a low replacement rate high bycatch on longlines that are meant for other fish "shark finning" All. a.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during spring. :) $12 tip if you get all the answers correct I need help with geography oceanography lab homework. Waves are the result of disturbance of the water surface; waves themselves represent a restoring force to calm the surface. -the lowest part of the wave, The time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point. b.are wider than summer beaches due to low energy waves during the winter. An aerial view of the coastline in Kihei, Hawaii, shows reflection, refraction, and diffraction of water waves (Fig. Earth is the only major body in the solar system on which there are active volcanoes. tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wavelength. wave refraction. Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation? You can use the same procedure to make a profile of the area outside your classroom. Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an. How might global warming exacerbate coastal hazards? Best location for petroleum resources is? C. gravity wave Oceanography Exam 3 Flashcards | Chegg.com An area that experiences diurnal tides will have ________. Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? How do I get rid of mosquitoes in my room fast? Select only one answer. -the highest part of the wave :) $12 tip if you get all the answers correct I need help with geography oceanography lab homework. 5.19). -Wave refraction at the headland decreases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. C) spilling breakers. the inverse of wave frequency The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to ________. GG101 Waves, Beaches, and Coasts - University of Hawaii 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. All rights reserved. The content and activities in this topic will work towards building an understanding wave patterns in water and how water wave action affects and is affected by nearshore and coastal features. Why do people generally install a groin along their beach-front property? Popular surf destinations tend to be located in geographic regions that are in a position to be regularly impacted by swells. e.All of the above might be found along a secondary coast. Test Prep. Evaporites (gypsum, halite) -When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. Surging breakers (Fig. Focusing Beyond the Diffraction Limit with Far-Field Time - Science Based on the graph, a deep-water wave with a period of 16 seconds should have a speed of ________ meters per second and a wavelength of ________ meters. Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction. . Surface waters are pushed away from land and replaced by nutrient-rich deep water through ____. Surf zones are found along the shores of the ocean as well as the shores of many large lakes. As waves move into shallower water, they contact the bottom and begin to move slower (see theWave Energy and Wave Changes with Depth topic in the Waves unit). -When waves with large amplitudes interfere. The vertical distance between a wave and a wave trough is called the ____. Constructive interference b. Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. Eventually, the wave will reach a height that causes it to break, or fall over onto itself. When this happens, waves change direction, moving toward the normal line, which is the line perpendicular to the boundary. Standing waves may be caused by _____. In Figure 5.7, L1 is the wavelength of the incoming waves and L2 is the wavelength of the refracted waves. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction, they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion, When waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, the waves slow down and the wave height increases, seacliffs are exposed to wave action, and they are also steep slopes, which can make them susceptible to landslides. 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. All rights reserved. a. is a function of the wind direction. Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane). OCE1001 Chapter 8 - Subjecto.com c.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during fall. Refraction and diffraction affect the amount of wave energy reaching a coastline. Concordant Coastlines This type of coastline is one where only one type of rock is facing the sea. A)constructive interference.B)destructive interference.C)wave diffraction.D)wave reflection.E)wave refraction. Which of the following is not a source of deep water in the ocean? 21) Waves converge on headlands due to: A) constructive interference. Fig. Oceanography Exam 2 Dubbs Flashcards | Quizlet Coastal upwelling along the coast of Chile is a result of winds from the ___ turning towards the ____ due to Ekman transport. The normal line is the horizontal dotted line. The speed and energy of water in rip currents can be very dangerous. Which of the following is the only current that completely circumscribes Earth? A wave with an amplitude that is the SUM of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. 5.18). L1 is the wavelength of the incoming waves and L2 is the wavelength of the refracted waves. -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak . -Wave amplitude remains the same as depth increases. Fig. Is Harlech Castle part of National Trust? Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave steepness? Wave-Coast Interactions | manoa.hawaii.edu/ExploringOurFluidEarth Waves converge on headlands due to: A) destructive interference. If the bottom is very steep, the resulting waves will be plunging. 5.9 A). An eddy is a circular, whirlpool-like, movement of water (Fig. If the map does not display but requires you to log in your organization account, log out of your organization account in the browser, and then refresh this page. the supply of new sand to replenish beaches is cut off Definition. Waves are usually smaller, but choppier, in the area of a rip current. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. If caught in a rip current, it is best to swim parallel to shore, until you are out of the rip current, before swimming toward shore. true. 22) Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation?A) sea, surf, swell B) sea, swell, surf C) surf, swell, sea D) surf, sea, swellE) swell, sea, surf On the other hand, waves approaching a headland converge and concentrate energy, also due to refraction (Fig. 5.4. Choose the one best answer from the choices provided. The fetch refers to A a method of shoreline erosion control Spilling breakers form when fast-moving water at the top of a wave spills over slower-moving water at the bottom. Where few streams bringing in lithogenous sediment. -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough, -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough. siliceous ooze (SiO2, plankton shells). than other ocean surface currents because ___________. A standing wave is caused by wave reflection. Most ocean waves form as a result of ____. ESCI Exam 3!! - Ch 8 Flashcards | Chegg.com Destructive interference c. Wave diffraction d. Wave reflection e. Wave refraction. Image courtesy of National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). 54. Based on the graph, which of the following has the lowest temperature? Image courtesy of Cecilia and Randy Lascody, from National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Is respiration endothermic or endothermic? Which of the following statements about storm surge is CORRECT? Eddies typically spin off of larger ocean current systems; they can stretch for hundreds of miles and last for months. What are two sources of dissolved salts in sea water? Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. E. sea or sea area. How are headlands and bays formed a level geography? D) wave reflection. How did the original headland become eroded to the present coastal landscape? b.rise in sea level due to a large weight of glacier on a continental mass. What are the main causes of tides on Earth? Your email address will not be published. Wave steepness is defined as wave height divided by wavelength. -Water moves linearly in the same direction as wave movement. 5.19. Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. 52. University of Hawaii, 2011. Question 22 1 waves converge on headlands due to 2 - Course Hero Term. -Pure constructive interference, Which of the following are names for large ocean waves that can be created by constructive interference? Coastal Processes Flashcards | Chegg.com Oceanography Exam 2 Quiz Sheet - Knowledge Mouse -the upper limit of wave-induced motion in the water 4 D) wave reflection.E) wave refraction. In addition to observing and obeying signs and flags that warn about rip currents, and swimming at beaches with lifeguards, learn what a rip current looks like so you can avoid them (Fig. Waves do not break as often in the gap where the rip current forms because the gap is deeper than the surrounding areas. . Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. Over 100 people die each year in the U.S. in rip currents and they account for over 80% of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards. the supply of new sand to replenish beaches is cut off Definition. Exploring Our Fluid Earth, a product of the Curriculum Research & Development Group (CRDG), College of Education. These differences in energy can affect the shape of the coastline. Fig. Exploring Our Fluid Earth, a product of the Curriculum Research & Development Group (CRDG), College of Education. The consistency of surf is dependent on the consistency of global weather patterns. People can be found watching and riding waves worldwide, from Japan to Spain to Africa to the great lakes of North America. Over time, erosion can cause cliff collapse therefore the coastline needs to be managed. on the continental rise by a turbidity current (under water landslide). Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? The interaction of longshore currents and eddy currents with coastal features produces stable, nearshore circulation patterns. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave phase Which plankton build a shell of silicia? winds blowing across the ocean surface (wrong answers: density differences between water layers , Earth's rotation , landslides , seismic events ) ; An internal wave might form _____. What does the term "in phase" refer to? b.destructive interference. -the bending of waves due to a change in wavelength, -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave amplitude What is the major mechanism by which ocean surface waves are generated? Local weather does not often produce great surf because swells need time and space (fetch) to become organized. -The depth of the wave base is one-and-a-half times the wavelength of the waves. Reflection occurs when a water wave bounces off of a hard surface, such as a seawall or a seacliff, changing the direction of the wave. about half way between high and low tides. Waves usually arrive nearly parallel to the shore because ____________________________. forms when electrons are transferred from one atom to another. true or false . Most ocean waves form as a result of _____. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, The distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, What is the wave period? Explore our library and get Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help with various study sets and a huge amount of quizzes and questions, Find all the solutions to your textbooks, reveal answers you wouldt find elsewhere, Scan any paper and upload it to find exam solutions and many more, Studying is made a lot easier and more fun with our online flashcards, Try out our new practice tests completely, 2020-2023 Quizplus LLC. Refraction is the change in direction of waves as they move between materials with different properties. Volcanic Ash. Ocean waves can be classified by the way in which they form. Eustatic (global) changes in sea level might include: a.increased glacial and sea ice melting due to global warming. D) surf. Eddies can transport nutrients onshore, offshore, or from deep water, helping to maintain populations of plankton. In general, the speed, frequency, period, and energy of a wave are not affected by reflection. Spilling waves advance to shore with a line of foam tumbling steadily down the front of the wave face. 47. Multiple Choice. University of Hawaii, . -The wave pattern produced when a new wave is created. By the time the wave reached the "6 hours" line west of Hawai'i, the wave moved slower in some places than in others. -The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an ________. 5.10). where storm waves move against strong surface currents. d. Earth only has only one tidal bulge facing either the Sun or the Moon. -The wavelength produced when two or more waves interact. There are three types of breaking waves: plunging breakers, spilling breakers, and surging breakers. An earthquake of magnitude 8.5 off the coast of Japan, 8000 km away, generates a tsunami with a wavelength of 200 km. . Water waves are a capillary waves b longitudinal - Course Hero d.silt and clay (i.e., very small particle size). Density differences; differences in salinity and temperature. For reflected waves, the angle of incidence, the angle at which the wave approaches the surface, equals the angle of reflection. The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to: How does water move as waves pass? E)wave refraction. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest density? Which of the following statements is true of surface ocean currents? As the bay is surrounded by land, one can come across calmer waters than the oceans. . Study with Quizlet and memorize flashcards containing terms like Waves converge on headlands due to:, As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:, The speed of a shallow- water wave is proportional to: and more. Make Print-Friendly, When you're ready to print, just click this button: (CaCO3), Foraminifera, Coccolithophores, Misc. The steeper the bottom slope, the greater the increase in wave height. between two successive waves is called the _________. The spinning rings that break away from the Gulf Stream and move. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. -Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. How do I put my PS5 controller in pairing mode? Using the above figure and what you learned in class, which body produces the largest tidal bulge on Earth? d.The gravitational attraction just between the Earth and Moon. What is the wave base? -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point 5.22. -The energy of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. -Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. Poop from animals that consumed shelled organisms. If the force on an object is in the negative direction, the work it does on the object must be? calcareous ooze (CaCO3, plankton shells) molecule has a positive and negative charge. a. wind duration b. the distance the wind blows over a continuous water surface c. wind speed d. wind turbulence e. All of the above are correct. Landforms created by erosion include, Erosion is a natural process which shapes cliffs . A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. The Gulf Stream is an example of which of the following currents? -Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. Waves converge on headlands due to: wave refraction. B. capillary wave -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to, The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to, The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a, the distance over which the wind blows without interruption, Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces, As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ____. B) wave reflection. Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water? Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis? The coastline is the boundary between the ocean and the land. Further Investigations: Wave-Coast Interactions, Energy Acquisition, Growth, Development, and Reproduction. -the highest part of the wave Would hydrogen chloride be a gas at room temperature? That energy is evenly spaced out in the deep water, but because of refraction, the energy of the waves is being focused on the headlands. Why do waves converge on headlands? - Answers HELP PLEASE! 5.21). Why does the damming of rivers sometime contribute to coastal erosion? Coastal waters support about _____________ percent of the total mass of life in the oceans. Which of the following currents contributes to the South Western United States being humid? -Wave period is the inverse of wave height. A wave may break more than once, and in different ways, as it advances to shore. e. to change the direction of the tides. b. they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion. -Havoc waves The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is the wavelength. The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to ________. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave What happened to the Screen Junkies Show? A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least: The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a: As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: Ocean waves in motion are classified as ______waves. How does sea depth affect erosion? Winter Beaches: a.are narrower than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. The first waves formed by the wind on a previously flat water surface, The area offshore within which waves are breaking is called the. In Figure 8A-1, the western, Figure 8A-3 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig08A-3a.jpg "At middle and low latitudes of both the Southern and Northern Hemispheres in Figure 8A-3, coastal areas, The September-October wind pattern transports coastal surface waters ______ producing ______.